Driving in Montenegro & Kotor’s Serpentine Road (2026)

Before driving to Montenegro, and especially before tackling its famous Serpentine Road, we did a bit of research online. We came across plenty of scary stories, with people describing driving in Montenegro as some of the most frightening driving experiences they'd ever had. However, our experience was quite the opposite, so we figured it was worth sharing our perspective as well.

We drove our own car all the way from the Netherlands to Montenegro and spent around five weeks there, where we based ourselves in Tivat. We used our car to explore Boka Bay, but also for trips to Durmitor National Park and hiking in Lovćen National Park.

Main Driving Takeaways

Traffic Jams & Busy Roads 

One thing we quickly figured out during our first few days of driving around Tivat is that the roads can get busy! Mainly because most of the towns around Boka Bay are built against the hillsides. This leaves very little room to widen the roads, meaning there's basically just one two-lane road connecting most of the bay.

After doing some grocery shopping outside Tivat, we found ourselves driving back on the only four-lane road we came across in Montenegro. It took us an hour and a half to get back, despite it being just 7 km away. We soon learned from some Montenegrins in our building that traffic jams and congestion are simply part of everyday life here. Needless to say, we didn't use our car to visit the big supermarket again.

The same goes for the road to and from the busy town of Kotor. Without traffic, the drive from Tivat to Kotor should take around 15 minutes, but most of the time it's closer to half an hour or more. So keep that in mind when planning your day.

Driving Across the Country

Most likely, you're not visiting Montenegro just to stay around the bay, even though Boka Bay itself has plenty of sights to explore. We, for example, really wanted to visit the famous Durmitor National Park, which turned out to be one of the highlights of our time in Montenegro.

After experiencing the traffic jams around Tivat, we made sure to allow some extra time for longer drives across the country. However, as soon as you start heading into the mountains on the northeastern side of the bay, the roads get quieter almost instantly.

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All the way to Žabljak, you'll find yourself driving on well-maintained asphalt roads, with speed limits of up to 80 km/h. A very different driving experience compared to the busy roads around the bay.

Other Drivers

Based on what we'd read beforehand, we were expecting Rome-like driving situations, with plenty of honking, hand gestures and aggressive behaviour. But we didn't experience any of that.

Sure, you might occasionally have a Mercedes right behind you, waiting for an opportunity to overtake. But we found that as long as you simply keep driving normally and don't let yourself get pressured, this doesn't necessarily lead to dangerous situations.

Even in busy Tivat, people generally make room for each other and let other cars merge. Just give other drivers a friendly wave or nod and you'll be perfectly fine. We were actually quite surprised by how relaxed the driving was and how patient other (local) drivers seemed to be. Based on our experience, we think that if you're confident driving in other Southern European countries, Montenegro shouldn't be all that different.

Driving on Mountain Roads

So, driving around Boka Bay, we found the roads busy but generally relaxed. Once you get into the mountains, however, it's probably a good idea to have at least some driving experience. The mountain roads in the national parks, for example, can be a bit daunting for inexperienced drivers. Just like in other mountainous countries, the roads can be narrow, with steep drop-offs in some places. So take it slow, especially in bad weather.

You should also expect the occasional blind corner and situations where you'll need to reverse into a passing bay to let oncoming traffic through.

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It's worth mentioning that we visited Durmitor National Park at the end of September, meaning it wasn't as busy as during the high season. There's a mountain pass on the southern side of the park that leads to some of the most beautiful hikes and viewpoints. This road can get quite busy, so it's advisable to head out early to beat the crowds and secure a parking spot at the trailhead.

Driving Kotor's Serpentine Road

The Kotor Serpentine was built in 1884, during the Austro-Hungarian era, as a strategic military and trade route connecting Kotor with the former royal capital of Cetinje. Originally designed for horse-drawn carriages, its 25 sharp hairpin bends are still there today. Since it was built in a different era, the road is quite narrow and is considered by many to be a challenging drive. Although it sounds like a crazy steep road, the average gradient is only 5%, so actually not all that steep.

We drove up the Serpentine in September, using our own car. We think this makes a difference, as you're naturally more familiar with your own car than with one you've rented just the day before. If you're renting a car in Montenegro, keep in mind that bigger isn't always better. With so many small and narrow roads, a small or midsized car is probably the better choice.

There are also plenty of rental cars on the road, meaning lots of drivers who aren't particularly familiar with the car they're driving. So give yourself, and other drivers, plenty of time and space.

We drove up the Serpentine at 9 AM on a Friday in September, and the road was surprisingly quiet. So much so that we started wondering whether some of the things we'd read online were actually true. Apparently, you're only allowed to drive up in the morning and down after 2 PM. We had also read that touring buses were prohibited from using the road.

It's a very winding and narrow road, but almost the entire route is lined with large stones and boulders for protection. On the way up, we encountered a couple of other cars, which meant slowing down and occasionally manoeuvring through sections with only a few inches to spare on either side. Overall, though, it was relatively quiet.

The final few bends offer some of the best views over the bay. You can also stop for a drink at Horizont Bar, where you can enjoy an even better view from their terrace.

After visiting the Petar II Mausoleum and enjoying a nice hike through the valley, we drove back down at around 2 PM. By then, we started to understand what all the fuss was about!

It only took a hairpin or two before we found ourselves face to face with a huge touring bus. Apparently, some touring buses ignore the restrictions and use the road anyway. This meant reversing around a hairpin bend to make room for the bus to pass. And since there were another five cars behind us, they all had to reverse as well. Needless to say, things move rather slowly in situations like this.

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That being said, if you're not particularly confident behind the wheel, this road might not be for you. But if you're an experienced driver, it's manageable. It might take a bit of manoeuvring back and forth, but as long as you drive slowly and anticipate oncoming traffic, you'll be fine. And honestly, it's quite fun to drive!

Tip Check Google Maps before setting off to see how much traffic there is on the route. Driving down took us significantly longer than driving up, although it wasn't too bad. During high season, however, queues can build up quickly, especially when many touring buses and motorhomes use the road.