CROATIA

Shaped like a crescent, with a long Adriatic coast on one side and a very different inland on the other. Most visitors come for the coast in July and August, and it shows. Dubrovnik, Hvar and the main stretch around Split are busy and priced for it.

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Come when late summer turns into autumn, in October and November, and the country slowly starts to feels different. The crowds thin out and prices ease. Some seasonal places close, but the towns carry on as normal for the people who live there.